Six months open, six months shut
Gipuzkoa, Basque Country, Spain — Basque cooking in a farmhouse, one menu a year, six months open.
The restaurant is closed for as long as it is open. It starts in spring, runs half the year, and then the doors shut; the same team stays in the same house and pulls the next menu apart, starting again from almost nothing.
While it is open, a meal runs about two and a half hours and lands somewhere between twenty-five and thirty courses. The kitchen designs the menu around the people at the table. There is no à la carte, and nothing to order.
Muga is Basque for boundary and haritz for oak, and the tree in the yard has stood on that line for two hundred years. The same thinking reaches the table: no bread, no dessert of its own, very few knives and forks, and no order of starters and mains.






