GeraniumThe dining room above the park

Eighth floor, among the branches

Copenhagen, Denmark — One tasting menu, no à la carte.

The first line of the official site reads "Thoughtfulness can be tasted". What follows describes a kitchen working light and bright, and a meal built for all five senses at once: things to smell, things to look at, things to taste.

One wall is floor-to-ceiling glass facing the canopy. The leaves go green, then yellow, then gone, and that is a year passing in a single window. Further out are the green copper roofs of the city, and on a clear day the wind turbines on the Øresund, still turning.

Rasmus Kofoed runs the kitchen, with Søren Ledet working alongside him. What the two of them send out is a single menu rather than a choice, and the official site puts the meal at three hours at least.

The room on the eighth floor

Round tables in pale wood, chairs with slatted wooden backs and beige seats. Along one wall runs a long counter whose frosted glass doors cover rows of wine glasses, and on top of it a light wood box holds a few green plants. The wall behind is glass, and the canopy starts at the height of the table.

At the other end is the kitchen, visible across a counter, so the work is in the room rather than behind a door. Further in there is another room that can be taken as a whole, with its own open kitchen and its own cellar, used for private dinners and anniversaries.

The order of the meal

The official site lists one menu and puts it at three hours minimum. What appears first and what appears last is the kitchen's decision, not the guest's, and the sequence is not published anywhere in advance. Guests arrive knowing how long, not what.

Because the menu turns with the season, photographs taken by other people are a guide to the style rather than to the food. Anyone planning a trip around a particular dish should assume it may not be on the menu by the time they sit down.