Chandelier at centre

London, United Kingdom

Victoria and Albert MuseumThe chandelier hangs in the hall's middle

The entrance hall is white; ribbed arches close overhead on both sides, a metal chandelier hangs at the centre, benches line the floor.

A spread of red-brick museum buildings in South Kensington, just over five hectares.

PlaceLondon, United Kingdom
TypeApplied arts museum
SuitsCraft, design, objects
PlanAn afternoon

Walking through, room by room

London, United Kingdom — Museum of applied arts.

Look up first, on entering.

This hall is tall, white walls and white arches, ribs crossing overhead, light slanting in from the high windows as a long strip on the floor. The chandelier is built up of metal and glass, hung low; standing under it you can count the tiers of fittings. Along the wall stand rows of wooden benches, much darker than the wall. Some sit still; some walk back and forth between the doorways, their steps muffled by the vault. Through this door, the next room changes wall colour and case height entirely.

Further in, cases follow one after another. Behind glass are ceramics, textiles, small metalwork, and whole stone carvings against the wall, scale jumping from large to small. Some galleries fill the walls with almost no bare space; others set a single piece before one wall, to be seen from far back. Round to the red-brick side and its outer court, another row of arched windows and brick mouldings. After long enough you forget which room you are in, remembering only the shape of the relief you just saw.

Circle on ceiling
The circle on the ceiling
Small wings on stone
Small wings on the stone
Pale stone wall side

A small angel holding a crown

On a pale relief, a plump child holds up a crown with one hand, the wings only a few curved lines, the cloud below rolled into a knot. The stone has fine pores and rounded edges. Hung alone on the wall, light from the side leaves a separate shadow on the swollen belly and the curled hair.

Lines on red brick

The circle on the ceiling

One ceiling sets its centre as a large circle, filled with repeating small grid patterns, denser toward the edge. Stand directly beneath and the circle is true; step forward and it flattens to an ellipse. Grey and white are enough; no colour carries it, only the density of the lines.

Arch framing columns

A façade framed by an arch

Through a deep archway, opposite, is another stone façade with colonnade; the doorway crops the columns and pediment into a square picture. The frame is thick; stand on the threshold and step back half a pace each way, and what falls inside changes by a whole column.

Wing drawn out long
Route

Another afternoon in London

Do not set it on the day you arrive in London; stay a night, give the next afternoon to South Kensington, and still catch another part of the city in the morning.

An afternoon that does not slip away

The V&A is vast; follow one material or one court.

Before you go

South Kensington is the stop; arrive mid-afternoon.

Pace

Let one gallery lead to the next.

After

The Natural History Museum is next door.

Plan this into a London stay

Tell us the days in London and we can talk through how an afternoon here fits with the rest of the city.

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